Hopping Through Vagamon’s Hills (And Collapsing at Zostel)

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So, why Vagamon? Honestly, Zostel happened. I’ve been low-key obsessed with experiencing the whole Zostel vibe — backpackers, chai chats, questionable Wi-Fi, you know the drill. Since we were already in Ernakulam visiting family, I thought, Hey, why not extend this trip and disappear into the hills for two days?

Spoiler: My plan was to have no plan. Just vibes. Maybe some trekking? (Spoiler #2: The hills humbled me.)

The “Relaxing” Walk That Turned Into a 3.5-Hour Leg Day

After rolling into Zostel, I asked the staff, “Hey, where can I go for a nice, peaceful morning walk?”

They said, “Kurisumala.”

Me: “Cool, cool. Sounds chill.”

It was not chill.

We left at 7 AM, all fresh and optimistic. The path starts with a “Oh, this is nice!” downhill, then immediately switches to “Wait, why is my heart rate in my ears?” uphill. The road was gorgeous though — flowers, tea gardens, the whole “I’m in a Bollywood song” aesthetic.

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Then we hit the main road and saw this big ol’ arch leading to Kurisumala. The walk up was steep. Like, “Did gravity just increase?” steep.

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3.2 km later, sweating like we’d run a marathon, we reached the top. There’s a Mother Mary statue, a Jesus statue, and - blessedly - snack shops and a washroom. (Priorities, people.)

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Next was the Way of the Cross — a steep hill with 14 stations showing Jesus’ journey carrying the cross before his death. At the third station, the inscription read, ‘He fell here.’ It’s a symbolic path that pilgrims follow, retracing his steps and reflecting on his suffering.

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We reached the third station before the sun began to roast us intensely. So, we tapped out, rested, and headed down — only to realize we had another hill to climb for Kurisumala Ashram.

The Ashram Detour (Or: How We Accidentally Almost Moved to a Resort)

We took a wrong turn (all thanks to partner) and ended up on the path to Tábor Resort. Realized our mistake after 500 meters (“Wait, where are the monks?”), backtracked, and finally found the ashram road. Below is the image of that junction from where one side goes to Ashram and the other goes to Tabor resort. Also, these are beautiful flowers which are facing downward. They are called Brazil’s white angel trumpet.

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By this point, the sun was aggressively sunny. I sat on the road (no benches, just vibes), ate an energy bar like a starved hiker in a movie, and dragged myself up another 900 meters. The entrance of the Ashram is in the pic below.

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The ashram was peaceful - cows grazing, monks in orange robes, the faint smell of milk and cow dung (nature’s perfume). We sat in a tiny old church, soaked in the silence, and pretended we weren’t dying from the walk.

Did we take pictures? Pfft, no. Some places just hit differently - like when you find that perfect nap spot and don’t want to ruin it by moving. This whole setup felt like stumbling into a storybook hill village where people still remember how to breathe properly.

The Ashram dairy sells milk within the city. Also, people can book a place to stay (according to locals). I think this is essential for the Ashram residents’ survival. Then came the best part: going downhill. The wind was cool; the roads were empty, and my legs were finally on strike.

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Final Stats of This “Casual Walk”

  • Distance: 8 km
  • Elevation: 300 (according to apple watch)
  • Hills conquered: At least 5 (felt like 50)
  • Wrong turns taken: 1 (could’ve been worse)

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Zostel Review: Beards, Buttermilk & Breezy Vibes

  • Staff: Super friendly, especially the long-bearded guy running the show.
  • Superior Delux Room: Spacious, clean, had a balcony, AC, good washroom.
  • Food: Kerala paratha + egg roast = happiness. But the buttermilk? SOUR. Like “Did a lemon marry a vinegar?” sour. My face has never puckered so fast. This is mostly what I eat, but the food was alright.

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Vagamon Weather: Schrödinger’s Climate

Forecast said hot and rainy. Reality? All the above, sometimes in the same hour. Morning: “Oh, so fresh!” Noon: “I’m in a frying pan.” Evening: “Wait, where’d the sun go?” Weather changes frequently there. My Trip date was 21st to 23rd April 2025.

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How to Get There

  • From Ernakulam: Uber (~₹3k).
  • Going back: KSRTC bus to Kottayam, then cab/train. Or book a direct cab (Zostel helped us — cost ₹3.6k).

Final Verdict

Would I do this again? Yes. Would I train my legs first? Also yes.

Vagamon, you beautiful, hilly beast — I left my heart (and possibly some leg muscles) there.

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